Fluxus Movement & Fashion (News)
March 02, 2009 (Belgium)
The collection Autumn-Winter 2009-2010 by Tim Van Steenbergen has the aura of Joseph Beuys and the Fluxus movement: ‘the search and respect for harmony in nature’.
Sober and fluent lines come alive in humble silhouettes with an easy fitting and a Chanel touch. The shape is straight and with an A-line. The structure of wood and its granulation are the signature of each garment. Ropes are stitched in spontaneous curved seams: the design of a tree that has been cut through. Organic forms show a physical process in pure, clean and rich materials, as if these clothes are telling their story.
Fabrics are cotton, cool wool, soft flannel and coated cotton, comfort jersey, felted merinos, ottoman silk, modal, cuprum, cashmere, structured leather and sheep. All finished with couture ribbons, luxurious buttons and duffle coat fastening. Colours vary from brown, grey, black, copper, powder and alabaster: The shades of the earth...
The woman’s collection shows structured suits and knee high skirts, bolero jackets, casually draped jersey trousers, belted pants with an outside waistband and classic men’s trousers with a slanting pleat. A rope is stitched on the leg as if it were a tree grain.
A sober dress, A- line silhouette, comes also in full embroidery. The same goes for the skirts and chemise jackets with embroidered wood structure or bark structure cut outs. This is the Victorian era!
Yet, one tiny dress, combination of jersey and zibeline or comfort wool, has an additional necklace accessory in jersey. Another straightly draped dress comes into different light or structured fabrics and fits the body in one movement: just as its is!
A horizontal degradé is surprising and plays with a distinguished pallet of colours. Different shirts with original fastening and cross lining on the back can be completed with capes and separate collars. Some jersey pullovers with frontal cross lining have a raw cut. Others are worked out and fit to the body.
A range of eyecatching jackets: asymmetrical long blazers with details of a tailcoat, cabans in comfort stretch, waistcoats with turned-up collars stitched with ropes, voluminous three-quarter length capes, sash jackets with hood in combination with deconstructed leather and sheep.
Knitwear duffle coats and skirts with jersey leggings underneath represent the playful chic! Seamed stockings, lingerie dresses, tops and cat suits in hightech lingerie materials are perfectly matching with the themes of this story.
Accessories consist of borsalino Beuys hats, gloves and spats in leather and sheep, collars, corset belts, and scarves which can be worn as bolero capes.
A series of luxurious sunglasses “Theo by Tim Van Steenbergen” and shoes, “Tim Van Steenbergen, handmade by Ambiorix” finishes this collection which is a reflection on ready-to-wear.
Tim Van Steenbergen